Deli-News Frisco Has North Texans Lining Up for Kosher-Style Soul Food
Pastrami on rye. A Reuben piled high with corned beef and sauerkraut. Chicken soup with noodles, kreplach, and a matzah ball. Brisket like Bubbie used to make it. Chopped liver. Everything bagels with a schmear. Jumbo black and white cookies. Seven layer cake. Rugelach. Three kinds of strudel. Is this Heaven? Brooklyn? No, it’s Deli-News Frisco, which fills up for Tuesday lunch as well as has customers lining up on Friday nights to enjoy a kosher-style feast.
Deli-News has been a Dallas institution for decades and Zorik Adamovsky, who grew up working for his father Michael at the original Deli-News, has been learning the business since high school. As jobs and Jews moved further up Preston Road, the need for a deli in Frisco was as urgent as the need for housing and good schools.
“It’s like manifest destiny,” Adamovsky quips…”only we expanded North instead of West.”
“I was eating at Deli-News so often it only made sense to side-step from cars to corned beef,” says auto industry executive Rick Messinger of his decision to partner with the younger Adamovsky to open Deli-News Frisco.
“We moved to Dallas in 1980,” Messinger says, “and Deli-News was our favorite restaurant. It’s not trendy, there’s no pretense, it’s just generous portions of really great food.”
Deli-News’ menu ranges from delicate cheese blintzes and potato pirogen to Hungarian goulash and stuffed cabbage to kishka and kasha varnishkas to Beef Stroganoff and boiled flanken. Salami hangs from the ceiling over a gleaming deli case loaded with cold cuts and the restaurant offers all the traditional breads, including kaiser rolls, onion rolls, rye bread, bagels, and, of course, challah.
Classic delis are associated with rude waiters, but you won’t find that at Deli-News Frisco, where service comes with a smile.
“We approach the business as ‘knish fulfillment,’” Messinger quips as he observes a happy table of diners tuck into their meals. “We understand the cravings people have for salty, crispy, chewy goodness…but we also remember they want to enjoy the restaurant experience.”
“Deli is fun,”Adamovsky adds. “Remember When Harry Met Sally? You wouldn’t believe how many people of all ages still say ‘I’ll have what she’s having.’”
But bear in mind that what “she’s” having is as likely to be Leah’s Healthy French Toast (made with whole wheat bread in egg white batter) or Zoric’s Power Breakfast (three egg whites, grilled chicken breast, sliced tomatoes, and a scooped bagel) or a Deli-News Veggie Omelet with a gluten-free bagel as Skylar’s Philly Cheese Steak (seasoned skirt steak, grilled onions, peppers, and provolone or “My Bubby Loves You,” which is hot beef brisket served between two potato pancakes with applesauce and sour cream on the side.
“Deli-News Frisco is not kosher,” Messinger says, to be perfectly clear. “And we have dozens of low-fat, low-cholesterol, whole grain, gluten-free menu items. So, this is definitely a contemporary take on New York deli.”
Deli-News Frisco, on Preston just north of Warren Parkway, which just opened in late 2018, has received rave reviews from D Magazine, USA Today, and Zagat. Besides weekdays and Friday nights, the place is understandably popular for Sunday brunch. With a brisk take-out business for office parties and home entertaining, Deli-News Frisco has quickly become the local go-to source for those catering a bris or sending a shiva platter
No need for reservations at Deli-News Frisco. There may be a line during peak hours, but there is never a long wait for a table and you’ll need time to study the menu and consider you options.
“We have an enormous selection and there’s always something inspiring,” Adamovsky says. “We understand sometimes a liverwurst lover is married to someone who prefers broiled salmon.”
“You’d never find this in New York,” Messinger says conspiratorially, “but we serve a Deli-Tex-Mex Omelet and grits!”
“We have pancakes, chicken fingers, and grilled cheese. Kids love it here. No one leaves hungry, that’s for sure,” promises Adamovsky.
This is Texas so, you may hear your server say “y’all come back now,” but the unofficial motto of Deli-News Frisco is “knish ‘n tell.”